Gritstone challenge

On Easter Sunday, with a fine day forecast, Jon and I set off for Stanage. We parked up at the unusually early hour of 8.30 at the Popular End and proceeded to walk the 3 miles to Stanage End. Upon arriving we located the route 'Start', which seemed as an appropriate place as any to start our challenge of doing 50 routes in a day.

I should explain that 100 routes in a day is regularly achieved on Stanage and other Eastern Gritstone crags so our 50 was, relatively speaking, a small number of routes. However, it felt like a big enough challenge to us. We decided to take a rope and a light rack so we could attempt some of the VS classics of the edge on our way as we were unwilling to solo some of the taller VS routes onsight. Stanage End passed quickly and we were on 10 routes within 90 minutes of starting, including the classic Green Streak. The smaller walls right of the end slab slowed us down somewhat and we were drawn into trying to highball a number of 5b and 5c problems; this sapped our power and motivation so we decided that in order to complete the challenge we'd best climb no harder than VS from then on.

The Crow Chin passed quickly and, from my point of view, uneventfully. Jon lead Kelly's Face, formerly graded diff and featuring precarious 4b moves with no gear at 10m, excellent fun. After Crow Chin a morale boosting count revealed that we were on 24 routes and nearly half way there. As we reached Cosmic Crack the sun came out and our energy levels dipped with every degree the temperature rose. I wanted to lead Cosmic Crack and managed to make the slowest, most unco-ordinated lead the route may have ever seen. I have no idea how long I spent going up and down at the top overhang, unwilling to commit properly to finishing the route. When I finally committed to the good foothold and good jugs the top arrived with ease. I quickly brought Jon up, annoyed with myself about how long I had taken. At this point I thought we'd blown it, but outwardly I remained positive. In a funny way thinking I'd blown doing 50 routes made me relax and enjoy the movement of the climbing.

High Neb was next, the lowering sun flooded the rock with a familiar glow. We were well warmed up and the easy movement over classic routes was immensely satisfying. Just out of interest we counted our total as we reached the end of High Neb, 37 routes, we might do this...... Quickly we half walked, half ran towards Dover's Wall intending to solo as many as we could in the remaining hour of light. After every route we shouted the number of routes we were on, encouraging, exhorting each other to concentrate. Tiredness was racing up on us but at the same time the finish line was close at hand. It was with great relief that I pulled over the top of Black Hawk Traverse, the light was gone and our torches were in Sheffield. Careful counting revealed we had managed 51 routes, we'd done it and with not a moment of light to spare.

Le Ben Nevis

Seduced by the forecast of wind, snow, rain and sleet we headed North for a final trip. The mild weather of the previous week meant that only Ben Nevis was worth considering for a trip; having seen some photos taken 2 days previously we decided there would be enough ice to justify the trip and that it should refreeze nicely on Sunday night.

After the usual long, but uneventful journey we pitched up in the North face car park to indulge in a spot of vagrancy before Monday's activities. Monday dawned bright and clear and we headed up the track feeling optimistic that the night would have done it's work and the ice would be in good condition. Sure enough high up there was a reasonable amount of good quality ice at the top of Coire na Ciste, Ad wanted to lead the Cascade and I was keen to follow some technical 5 ice to see how it compared to technical 5 mixed. It seemed to take an age to reach the bottom of the route, however, once we were there a comforting rock belay and the stimulating view of the ice meant that our travails were quickly forgotten. Ad led the pitch smoothly (apart from the odd axe slippage) and soon it was my turn to follow. The start was ok but then it steepened, steepened again and stayed steep for a full 40 metres. A good lead! I was bushed at the top and I was only seconding.















Ad leading the Cascade, grade IV (5).






Following a day's rest, on the Wednesday we looked at the forecast of wet snow and strong winds and decided that North East Buttress would provide a suitably challenging day out. This time we were joined by Pete, who had just led his first grade IV on the Monday. The day dawned suitably foul and damp.









Nice weather..........










Near the CiC hut we met snow, which steadily increased in depth as we rounded the base of the first platform. Staring upwards into the sharp snow showers we struggled to discern the sloping ledge which led to the First Platform. After some upward wandering we managed to locate the ledge and soloed along it to the start of the route proper. Examining the ground ahead, we decided to move together until it got hard.













Approaching the 1st platform







The route was quite intricate and yet natural in the line it took, never hard but always interesting. Following some excellent icy mixed climbing we reached the Second platform snowfield whereupon I insisted on having a turn at leading. It was most enjoyable to be out in front and finding the route. After a while I was running short on gear, a final chossy ice bulge barred access to a crack and belay. I dug out a runner and after some trying found decent placements to pull over the bulge and access the belay. Soon after we arrived at the infamous mantrap. It was hard, but short and well protected and we got over it without much bother. The 40ft corner provided a final superb pitch before some wading along an easy arete led to the plateau in a whiteout.

40 ft corner, well banked with ice and snow.